Na semana de 02 até 08 de abril estivemos na Patagônia – mais precisamente nos Fiordes em Puerto Natales, Província de La Última Esperanza em Magallanes y Antártica Chilena – participando dos 70km da Ultra Fiord 2018 uma das mais inóspitas, desafiadoras e exigentes das Américas e talvez até do Mundo. Fomos em um grupo de 07 pessoas e nos dividimos entre as distâncias de 70 e 100km.
Viagem Porto Alegre-Puerto Natales
Nossa viagem se iniciou em 31 de abril no Aeroporto Salgado Filho em Porto Alegre as 18:40h, fizemos escala em São Paulo, São Paulo – Santiago/Chile , Santiago-Punta Arenas, que fica localizada distante 250 km de Puerto Natales – este percurso fizemos de ônibus e desembarcamos na rodoviária da cidade, próximo ao meio dia. Levamos aproximadamente 18h em todo esse trajeto.
Puerto Natales
A cidade é caracterizada por casas e sobrados de no máximo dois andares, muito fria, mas em todos os locais a calefação à gás faz com que passemos calor. Ótimo para uma gripe! A cidade é o ponto de partida para todos os aventureiros que vão explorar o Parque Nacional de Torres del Paine. Na semana da Ultra Fiord os trailrunners se misturaram aos que estavam por lá para fazerem os trekking dos circuitos W e O, aos escaladores e aos turistas que para àquelas bandas próximas do fim do mundo vão para aproveitar os passeios das diversas operadoras de turismo – ora navegando pelos fiordes ora nas vans pelos caminhos do maravilhoso parque.
Nos hospedamos no simpático Hostal Wild, local com quartos individuais e coletivos. Possui café da manhã incluso na diária, serviço de quarto, e é desprovido de cozinha coletiva. Ficamos em um quarto que tinha uma cozinha, o que tornou mais barata a nossa viagem, íamos ao mercado todos os dias e cozinhávamos. A comida em Puerto Natales é muito cara, pelo seu perfil turístico, e também por ser porta de entrada para o Parque Nacional de Torres del Paine.
Atividades pré-prova
Como previsto realizei o check de material obrigatório conforme o Guia do Atleta. A lista era extensa, com materiais específicos, tais como kit de primeiros socorros, roupas térmicas e alimentação. Neste momento recebi um passaporte de corredor para ser rubricado a cada atividade realizada durante a prova, a cada PC. Depois de checar o material obrigatório fui receber o kit de atleta e no próximo dia entreguei os dropbags, com materiais para troca em locais específicos durante o percurso. Para os 70 km tínhamos 2 drops, um no km 55 e outro na chegada.
Para relaxar realizamos um passeio de barco pelo Fiord de la Última Esperanza. Este fiorde é resultado do degelo ocorrido a mais de 3000 anos e é formado pela mistura das águas do degelo e do oceano, nela a profundidade média é de 400 metros e a máxima chega aos 800 metros. Verificamos o que está acontecendo com o Glaciar Balmaceda, que trinta anos atrás encostava nas àguas do fiord e agora encontra-se na metade da monte de mesmo nome, mas o mais triste é que àquela beleza natural pode desaparecer nos próximos 40 anos, tudo graças ao aquecimento global. Também fizemos uma caminhada por uma trilha até a base do Glaciar Serrano e pudemos verificar quão magnífico é estar próxima de algo que grande parte de nós brasileiros só conhecemos por filmes e imagens. Ao final do aprazível passeio almoçamos um cordeiro patagônico na Estância Perales e fomos presenteados com a chegada dos dois primeiros colocados dos 50km, prova que acontecia naquele mesmo dia. Parecia que tudo correria bem naquela semana em que atletas de todos os níveis e de diversos lugares do planeta decidiram desafiar as agruras e a grandiosidade daquelas gélidas e úmidas paisagens.
Contra-tempo e exemplo inspirador
A largada dos 70 km estava agendada para quinta-feira 05/04/2018 as 10:00h.
Como previsto saímos da simpática Plaza de Armas de Puerto Natales em um ônibus que nos conduziu até Puerto Bories, depois uns 15 minutos de deslocamento embarcamos no barco que levaria cerca de 60 apreensivos atletas até a Estância Balmaceda local da largada dos 70km. Depois de 03:00 horas e atravessar novamente o Fiord de La Última Esperanza chegamos ao ponto onde iniciaria a tão esperada e desejada Ultra Fiord 2018 para nós.
Porém, em virtude da tempestade de vento e a nevasca que assolou o percurso na noite anterior nossa largada foi suspensa e fomos informados que retornaríamos para Puerto Natales e que a nossa largada seria adiada para o próximo dia. Aqui cabe uma observação, na montanha e naquelas bandas meridionais a previsão do tempo é algo tão verdadeiro e confiável quanto uma nota de três reais. Com um certo ar de decepção e ainda mais apreensivos tivemos que aceitar a decisão de retornarmos para Natales.
Mas, quando pensamos que nossa viagem havia sido em vão, tivemos um dos maiores exemplos de superação, força de vontade, determinação e capacidade da mente humana, temos que confessar que jamais tínhamos visto algo assim. O atleta Gustavo Carneiro, de Uberlândia Minas Gerais, vítima de uma amputação do Membro Inferior Esquerdo, por um lipossarcoma, estava completando a prova de 30km que havia largado em 04/04/2018 e depois de 29 horas de prova ali chegava. Ele participou da prova junto com repórter, cinegrafista e auxiliar de uma emissora televisiva de Uberlândia- MG, tudo para registrar o desempenho esportivo desse brasileiro, que é uma referência na luta contra o câncer. Nosso tenaz brasileiro, chegou com sinais de desidratação e hipotermia e exausto. Conseguimos dar os primeiros socorros dos quais ele necessitava depois de mais de um dia de esforço intenso. Depois de recomposto, o nosso resiliente “brazuca” nos presenteou com seus motivos para arriscar-se em um prova tão inóspita e traiçoeira, motivos que nos fizeram entender e pensar na real capacidade do ser humano; e nós Maria’s fomos agraciadas com uma entrevista do Gustavo que será publicada na semana que vem, pois ele e nós merecemos compartilhar do exemplo desse anônimo e inspirador brasileiro.
Finalmente a Prova
Ao amanhecer do dia 06 de abril, depois de inspirados pelo exemplo do atleta fisicamente deficiente, mas um gigante em força de vontade e determinação, mais uma vez embarcamos nos ônibus, que dessa vez nos levaram até o Hotel Rio Serrano, novo local da largada dos 70km, 100km e local previsto desde o ínicio para a largada das 100 milhas, prova que também tivera sua largada suspensa em virtude do mal tempo. Fomos informados que não passaríamos pelo glaciar por motivo de segurança, devido ao fato da tempestade de vento e neve ter coberto as gretas e o risco de queda ser muito alto. Mas essa não foi a única mudança, todas as distâncias teriam os primeiros 80km idênticos,(80? Mas viemos pra correr 70) isso mesmo as prova dos 70km foi transformada em 80km, os 100km em 110km, até ai todos ganhando, mas as 100 milhas também fariam os mesmo 110km, ou seja perderam em distância. Não foi informado como seria a classificação dos atletas inscritos nos 100km e nas 100milhas, se seria a mesma prova ou cada um na sua. Mas nessa altura era o que menos importava todos queriam largar logo.
Às 10:05 de 06 de abril de 2018 larguei para os mais surpreendentes, duros e perigosos 80km que já tinha participado em quase cinco anos de ultratrail. Sabendo que 10 minutos depois os atletas dos 100km e 100milhas largariam. Iniciei a prova subindo por um bosque com terreno seco na sua maioria. A partir do momento em que ia ascendendo o calor e a umidade também iam aumentando. Já no terceiro km foi necessário retirar os casacos e apenas uma blusa dry e outra térmica foram suficientes. Subi 7 km, como todo início de prova não foi diferente, percebi os corredores ansiosos, conversavam muito, contavam de suas vidas e ainda gargalhavam. Por incrível que pareça, durante as provas sou calada, foco no terreno e no comportamento do meu corpo, e acabo apenas escutando. E me divirto com as histórias dos meus falantes e lépidos parceiros de prova.
Depois da subida o terreno começou a mudar, o solo ficou molhado, o barro apareceu, a temperatura caiu e começaram a aparecer os primeiros sinais de neve, mas ainda continuávamos no bosque. Eu, como de costume, demorei para entrar na prova, passei muito calor no início, não conseguia render, o cardio sofrendo um pouco.
Ao chegarmos no cume, nos deparamos com uma montanha linda, cheia de neve e pedras, vento e mais frio. Tive que vestir o corta-vento por cima e fiquei confortável. Comecei a entrar na prova e me sentir melhor, sem falar na sensação de plenitude por estar ali. Eu nunca havia estado na neve, neste caso só faltavam cair os floquinhos para eu ficar mais realizada ainda!
Este foi o percurso modificado, o cume que passamos estava atrás do glaciar, o terreno era de neve e pedras, mas seguro, e não necessitamos dos crampons. Mas como tive que focar no cuidado nos movimentos para evitar quedas, não consegui registrar nada. A imagem das pedras soltas cobertas de neve e o cenário do entorno, algo deslumbrante e hipnotizante que ficaram gravados na memória. Eu passava por lagos congelados e mexia com o bastão para verificar a realidade daquilo tudo. Naquele momento realmente eu estava brincando na neve, o que de certa forma me deixou mais à vontade para seguir o meu caminho, até por que já tinha sido orientada do que estaria por vir e sabia que não seria nada parecido com aquele ambiente lindo e dos meus sonhos.
No PC Chacabulco 2 encontramos pela primeira vez os staffs da prova. No km 15 fizemos o primeiro check point no nosso passaporte de corredor e de lá iniciamos a temida travessia do bosque. Num ambiente muito parecido com os filmes como Senhor dos Anéis e outros do gênero, árvores com aspecto sombrio, atoleiros que pareciam sem fundo e nos sugavam em algumas vezes até quase a cintura, neve pelo chão e a tundra uma vegetação encharcada que parecia uma esponja, nos deslocando por cima dela, parecia que estávamos em uma cama elástica, porém, quando menos esperávamos afundávamos e mais uma vez éramos presenteados pelas frias águas que corriam por debaixo daquela vegetação de tom laranja. Ao longo do bosque fomos passando pelos diversos PCs por lá distribuídos.
Além do terreno a travessia do bosque tornou-se difícil, também, devido ao precário balizamento. Em diversos momentos necessitávamos parar e procurar as balizas azuis ou as fitas amarradas nas árvores e arbustos. As 19:56h chegamos, ao primeiro ponto de corte o PC Ascenso e dele partimos para a maior, inédita e temida ascensão do desafio – o CERRO PRAT.
Até aqui vim acompanhada de um corredor mexicano, que vive em Santiago, o Patrício, e combinamos subir juntos pois a noite já havia chegado e sabíamos que as marcas estariam ainda menos visíveis. Neste momento fiz uma alimentação reforçada: foram quatro fatias de pão, duas barras de chocolates com cereais (disponíveis no PC), capsula de sal e BCAA. Me agasalhei e seguimos viagem. Seguimos por 4 km intermináveis em ascensão pelo bosque com mesmo terreno, na penumbra, literalmente caçando as marcas, que tornaram-se refletivas com a chegada da escuridão. Após este percurso, saímos do bosque e o floquinhos começaram a cair no meu impermeável.
Bah, que lindo! Eu fiquei literalmente emocionada, pois além de ter vencido o cume, ainda nevou, não precisava de mais nada. Foi aí que nos enganamos muito, seguimos pelo falso cume, a neve aumentando, assim como o vento, calcei as luvas de alta montanha, e meus dedos das mãos começaram a perder sensibilidade.
Continuamos no percurso por aproximadamente 40 minutos e as marcas ficavam cada vez mais distantes. O Patricio localizava e eu confirmava e vice-versa, ai então seguíamos. A sensação térmica foi diminuindo e o frio aumentando. De repente as marcas sumiram, e quando olhamos a direita, tínhamos mais um cume para escalar. Visualizamos a luz das lanternas dos atletas que estavam na nossa frente no percurso. Aí que vimos o quanto estávamos errados, não tínhamos chegado no cume verdadeiro, ainda tínhamos alguns km quase que verticais para trilhar. Enquanto isso já estávamos com a neve pelas canelas, vendaval e muito medo. Pensava que o meu objetivo naquele momento era sair dali, o mais rápido possível, pois o risco de congelamento era grande. Localizar as marcas ficou quase impossível, então seguíamos as pegadas, até alcançarmos o cume verdadeiro. Checamos nosso passaporte com um staff, e agora só faltava descer. Descer? Fácil. Foi muito mais difícil e perigoso que subir, posso até arriscar a dizer que foi o percurso mais técnico da prova, neve alta, pedra lisa, sem condições do uso de trekking pole, queda na certa. O jeito foi descer resvalando sentada, (tipo skibunda) por aproximadamente 4 km; resultado, pânico com as pedras rolando na minha direção, nádegas com muitos hematomas e o medo redobrado. As marcas continuavam sem dar sinais de vida e começamos a gritar aos corredores que estavam mais abaixo de nós, eles responderam que viram marcas, então seguimos na direção deles.
No final da descida o percurso seguiu por um terreno mais firme que inicialmente era um bosque, mas depois se abriu em trilha, consegui imprimir ritmo e finalmente correr. Cheguei ao PC Milodón as 02:25h, segundo ponto de corte da prova e local onde os atletas tinham enviado seus drop bags.
Do PC Milodón até a chegada: eram 25km e a prova se transformou em outra, por um terreno firme, marcado por estradas e caminhos firmes, após alimentação e reposição das caramanholas, segui para uma caminhada forte até o final. Mas meu corpo começou a responder positivamente ao estímulo da corrida, fui alternando trote e caminhada forte e fui me distanciando dos companheiros. Então segui o restante da prova sozinha.
Por volta das 08:30h cruzei a linha de chegada, com o tempo total de 22:38h o que rendeu o 6º lugar no geral feminino dos 70/80km e o 3º lugar na categoria 40-49 anos.
Um ônibus nos conduziu até Puerto Natales onde desembarcamos certos de que as pessoas que pisaram naquele solo patagônico não eram mais as mesmas que tinham largado do Hotel Serrano na manhã anterior. Um misto de felicidade, realização e medo eram visíveis em todos os sujos e cansados rostos.
Pós-prova
No pós-prova ficamos sabendo que os 100km e as 100milhas tinham sido interrompidas no km 80, mesmo local da nossa chegada, algo que gerou muita frustração e reclamações dos atletas daquelas distâncias.
Impressões e conclusões
Uma prova que se mostrou em um primeiro momento, extremamente organizada, pois necessitei até encaminhar meu currículo para poder realizar a inscrição.
O ambiente completamente inóspito, com riscos graves de acidentes, confesso até que esperava passar por tudo que passei, e isso não me assustava, mas dentro do regulamento e guia do atleta ficou subentendido que teríamos a assistência adequada em caso de necessidade, algo que não percebi ao longo do percurso.
O balizamento da prova foi considerado inadequado em determinadas áreas, ou seja as áreas que mais necessitavam de marcação, ficamos completamente perdidos, contando uns com os outros para localizá-las. Trabalho em equipe por parte dos atletas.
Os PCs apresentavam-se precários, com fogo de chão, sopa instantânea, água quente. Para reposição dos reservatórios tínhamos que usar água do rio. No guia do atleta foi mencionado uma lista de alimentos que encontraríamos nos PCs, e isso com certeza deixou muitos corredores sem aporte alimentar.
No caso dos 80 km, o clima foi generoso com os atletas na maioria do percurso, temperaturas amenas, pouca chuva e vento, salvo a subida no Cerro Prat. Fui preparada para as mudanças de temperatura e clima, pois até no momento de maior tensão sabia que tinha que me manter em deslocamento e sair o mais rápido possível do alto da montanha, pois os riscos de acidentes e intercorrências eram grandes e eminentes.
Com as alterações climáticas ocorridas durante as provas de 30, 42 e 50 km, e as intercorrências relatadas por vários atletas, acredita-se que a organização tentou usar o plano B para a as distâncias dos 70, 100 e 160 km, porém a estrutura da prova não acompanhou na mesma proporção a mudança do percurso. Isso trouxe um descontentamento muito grande aos atletas.
Não houve premiação oficial para as primeiras colocações das distâncias dos 100 e 160 km. Os atletas foram atrás de suas medalhas e não receberam nenhuma justificativa da conduta tomada pela organização.
Mas… apesar de todos os momentos de tensão vividos, da exposição às modificações bruscas do clima, da falta de organização e descaso da equipe organizadora, posso deixar registrado a minha evolução. Estar em um local como este, e superar as adversidades extremas me fez pensar na vida, me colocou numa posição frágil, impotente às força da naturezas. Ela nos impõem respeito e gratidão por ter a oportunidade de sentir um pouco da sua força. Praticar o trailrunning nada mais é que entrar em harmonia com a natureza, reconhecer que ela não perdoa, e que se teu corpo e tua mente não estiverem preparados o risco de ser abatido por ela existe sempre.
Foi sensacional, pelos amigos que fiz, pelos parceiros que me ajudaram, pelo caminho trilhado, com um pezinho na frente do outro, por sentir a força da neve, por atolar até os joelhos no charco e fazer força para sair, por aprimorar meu senso de localização atrás das balizas de marcação, por ter conquistado tudo aquilo com os meus próprios pés.
ULTRA FIORD – DONE!!!!
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